I always leave the last tie in place and gently ease the last portion off the tension box and wind on the last portion by hand, being careful not to twist the bout but maintain the direction of the threads. I secure the end in place with a small piece of painters tape to hold in on the beam and then move the tension over the next spot and do it all over again. You are free to stop and walk away at any point and you are able to do it all by yourself with no helpers.
This next close up shows the cross loop securely in place:
Then I take my lease sticks and tape shut one end of the pair. I sit on a stool at the back of the loom and one by one, remove the tape and open the cross and slide onto my lease sticks in order. I'm careful to check the direction of the warps threads so not to twist them. (If you do this, it will have to be corrected later and it's easier to double check now!) When all bouts are on the lease sticks I tape closed the opposite end.
Here are all the warp bout over the back beam and smooth
I turn the lease sticks over the top of the back beam, then I take the brake off the rear pawl and rachett and so I am able to pull more of the warp forward. Try to do this positioned in the front and pull evenly till you have what you need. This is the one time where you might need a helper but once accomplished on your own, its fine after that. Apply the brake once more.
I then secure the lease sticks to long cords that hang from the castle of my loom. I push them as close to the back of the heddles as possible.
I remove the beater bar assembly from the front and also the breast beam. I will then sit at the front and pull each bout through, remove the last tie and smooth to detangle.
When I'm sure that all is well, I will snip the loops securing the crosses and remove. I comb out the warp bout and then cut the looped ends at the bottom of the bouts all across the warp. I'm now ready to thread.
There, I think that's more than enough for this post!