Be Careful What You Wish For!

This post will have a little bit of everything!

I found an old black dress that the 'dryer shrunk'  ;)  Its too small for me right now.

So I tried it on Madge Manikin and somehow she looks more complete. More put together. I could still use some arms though so I'm always scanning sale pages for a used manikin. A second one would come in handy sometimes! (No, its not your imagination, she's leaning a bit. I have to shim her 'feet' and straighten her up!)

I have a new warp on the Louet Spring for more men's scarves. Its silk yak blend at 36 epi so its quite fine. I was quite surprised by how much 'loft' the yarn has. Its very lush and springy but was not difficult to beam and behaved well.  I'm using a fine 30/2 black silk as my weft on this four shaft herringbone twill.  Its finer than I wanted but it seems I'm out of 20/2 black silk. Any way you cut it, its a lot of treadling ! 

Sorry for the mobile picture but I forgot to snap the plaid section that will be on either end of the scarf.

In between is a whole lot of....

One, two, three , four.... and repeat !   This is scarf one of three....

Meanwhile on the Woolhouse... I finally finished fiddling with the cords, did the tie up and made a start today. The back peg board told quite a story!

The top picture show all the cords that I worked on. There were two treadles on either side of the centre twelve that I left alone. (they have not been used so would not have stretched). The second picture is a closer view of the middle of the board. The blue ties are the ones that had shifted and needed remarking. Any red ones are the old ties and were fine. Tie up's are usually focused on the middle portion of the treadles and so receive more action.  Still think texsolv doesn't stretch?

This picture was taken on the far right of the board and these shaft/ treadle combinations were only lightly used. There are far more red ties from the original marking with just the odd blue one.  If I use more 12 treadle tie up's in the coming months, then the two outer shafts will need a tweak... that's not difficult to quickly do up.

So what finally showed up on the fun end of the loom?  Glad you asked!

A rather interesting twill. Its a twelve shaft draft, threaded like a turned twill.  White cottolin sett at 24 epi and the weft is 8/2 cotton in sage green. There is two distinct blocks (treadles 1 to 6, and, treadles 7 to 12) What you see above is a simple treadling of 1 through to 12 and repeated. Optically its a brain teaser! I really like it and looking forward to trying other treadlings on these seven kitchen towels.

Speaking of treadlings.... last post I grumbled about how short a run only four treadles were. They are very light to lift too.  Well, Karma is pretty quick as I'm lifting twelve shafts now and I'm going to have great thigh muscles by the time I'm done (even with all the pulleys). Its also a twelve treadle run and compared to the other loom, it seems I'm never done! There is always another treadle to hit.  So with two looms at these funny extremes... I'm having a  good laugh at myself. One loom is a rest and the other a work out.

As I mentioned previously I have been selling off stuff from the studio and then I ordered in some goodies. They are slow coming in but they are coming!

From Etsy shop "All the Pretty Fibers" some yummy 20/2 mulberry silk hand painted in a rich deep grape. They came from Rothenburg, Germany.  (If you are into spinning, check out her fiber.... its gorgeous!)

I'm looking forward to viewing this dvd on Block Weaves by Madelyn van der Hoogt soon. I can play it in my laptop and view it on the big screen TV... but its finding the time to view it! I'm sure that as supportive as Hubby is, it would be boring stuff for him. These discs are like having a workshop close to hand and a great refresher. 

 Off to Victoria tomorrow....they have cherry blossoms out and spring bulbs are up there.  Its supposed to be raining but I'll take it. It beats the heck out of what other parts of the country have been getting!

Snowflake Twill: One Step Back and Four Steps Ahead

I think there's no point in hiding the fact that I love twill. I love the complexity, the convoluted thread paths and watching them grow as I throw the shuttle.

I hadn't been weaving for too long when I found some old material at a second hand store. It was just a scrap in a basket of old doilies and linen hankies. The pattern was amazing! I bought it for a dollar and later found out it was snowflake twill in off white and beige cotton.... with an orange stripe down one side. I didn't like the orange line but some weaver long ago placed it there and had a good reason to do so.  I was going to photograph the fabric to show you and have been taking my studio and linen cupboard apart to find it but no luck!  ( If you click here... this link will take you to a post where I show the antique cloth and also more snowflake scarves more recently finished )

Then came a blizzard of snowflakes!! Weavers Magazine issue number 13, 2nd quarter 1991  and before too long issue number 18,  3rd quarter 1992 and then issue number 20, 1st quarter 1993.   Seems I wasn't the only one who liked the pattern work and there was a demand for more! They featured more projects in Weavers issue number 35, Spring 1997 again.  Even the recent fall 2012 Handwoven magazine featured a reprise of snowflake once more. Its like "eye candy"!

Over the years I have woven endless yards of snowflake twill in scarves, shawls and table runners. I have never used it for kitchen towels as that would seem sacrilegious somehow, but there's no reason why it couldn't be done. It would be a lot of work for a towel you wipe dishes with!  It seems to be a draft I turn to time and again. So much so, I can recite the entire treadling by memory... forward and backwards!

Its known as snowflake twill, or Swedish snowflake twill, which is interesting since Guild of Canadian Weavers Masterweaver Jane Evans wrote her thesis on Latvian weaves. It was later published as this (sadly) out of print book:

It seems the Latvians trace it back as one of their traditional patterns. Well, who ever invented this pattern has my eternal thanks!

So what is snowflake twill? Its technically a twill progression. A ever progressing twill run to a mid point and then mirror reversal. This detail (below) shows a typical 8 shaft run that creates the "X" formation:

Notice the zig zag runs below the threading

There is a whole world of  twill progressions out there, so if this inspires you to look further, then great!

 In the best of Weavers "Twill Thrills" they show a lovely heart shaped motif so once you get the concept, its fun to play with and see what you can come up with. (Granted, a computer program makes this much easier and I use Fiberworks-PCW.)

Fair warning! It seems to gently lead you further, deeper into the next weaving world of Network Twills like the rabbit diving into the hole in Alice in Wonderland! (The best guide introductory guide for network twills, and theory on most weave structures,  is Madelyn van der Hoogt's "The Complete Drafting Book for Handweavers")

Then you link the motifs together with either satin threading (note the beautiful cross style pattern created between the X's):

My favourite method is to use a point twill threading in between. Jane Evans had a lovely runner featuring this method in Weavers Magazine issue number 18:

It certainly adds more drama!

Table runner, in fine mercerised cottons, 36 epi.

Smooth yarns really show the pattern nicely and square the pattern better, and I have used various weights up to size 10/2 (or 2/10) cotton but anything larger in grist would have a float problem.  Having said that, I have seen a lap throw in medium sized wool and it looked stunning! The wool has the ability to hold the twill floats in place, particularly if fulled a tad. Its produces a nice balanced pattern if you use the same size yarn as both warp and weft, otherwise the X's become elongated and just look weird. 

I also tend to use soft neutral colours as the pattern can get rather busy visually and even more so with bolder colour. Again, some years ago I used cream silk as warp and black silk as weft and it was snapped up at a sale! The woman buyer had what I would like to call, an "exuberance for fashion and flair." Back in 2005-2006 I was commissioned to weave an all black snowflake twill shawl. It was hard on the eyes but it was stunning! I didn't have a digital camera then unfortunately.

I like to use one matte yarn and one shiny one to get a beautiful play of light on the cloth to reveal the pattern. This way it looks great on a table with the wood :

This is the table runner I gifted my son and daughter in law this past spring.

I personally haven't woven a four shaft version but I did venture into twelve shaft territory for my sister's shawl. ( all details are fully covered in three posts on "Melinda's Shawl" are shown on the sidebar, under "Topic Shopping") I used a fine off white tencel (shiny) and used a silk seaweed blend weft (semi matte). The X's get to be rather large as you can see from this picture. That's a six inch ruler for one repeat:

As you can see this twenty one inch wide shawl has the room for the larger pattern. I could only fit three repeats across the shawl.  I've run my limit on shaft size though, unless I go to really fine yarns like 20/2 cottons and sixteen shafts, otherwise the float lengths will become a problem. Might be fun to try it sometime on the Megado!

So does it always have to be an X?  No... you can get a squared O from the same draft! With the regular threading in place, simply treadle the reverse of the threading: (can you spot the mistake?  :)

Here's another twist on this. The threading and treadling are reversed...... and it produces

.... you get X's! Reverse one direction, either the threading or treadling and the O's are back.

So time to move onto the snowflake scarves on my big loom and a progress report. Its still under way as I had put on warp long enough for three scarves. I had a few set backs.  I was weaving away and had enough done so that I could now see the underside as it advanced almost to the cloth beam.  So roughly twenty five to thirty inches...then I  saw the  white line!

This picture was awkward to get and then Blogger turned it for you, but you can see the line. What caused it? One warp end that didn't get threaded through the eye of the heddle, but just below it. If it had been above the eye then the line would have appeared on top and been caught right away.  The top looked just fine!

There are some threading lines but they tend to coincide with the three ends per dent in my twelve dent reed. I'm not going to tell you how many inches of silk yak blend I cut and pulled out. I wanted to save the warp and not get the fuzzies.  I let it sit for a few days after fixing the warp thread. The warp and I needed a time out.

The warp is bleached camel and silk blend and not overly shiny  and the (now scrapped) silk yak was not all that shiny either. Now I had a chance to change up the weft (notice how I'm looking for the positive here?)  I used a 20/2 silk for the first scarf for a tone on tone. The lines are quite visible but they are not errors.  They are three thread groupings through the reed that coincide with the pattern groupings. Believe me, I double checked!!

The second scarf is currently under way and I'm using a beige silk and camel blend and it has a beautiful golden sheen. Its a finer weft and so the pattern repeats are smaller... and there's a whole lot of weaving to get the inches in!

I also have a scarf warp going on the Louet as well and so took time out to weave a scarf there.  This project needs my close attention as well when treadling ...yes, its another twill. Are you surprised?

Review: Warping Your Loom

Some posts ago, I showed you some DVD's I received just after Christmas and promised to review them for you.  I will do all three sets in time but I'm just doing one today:

Beautifully presented by weaving  instructor Madelyn van der Hoogt

It is  a two disc set produced By Interweave Press has a total running time of 148 minutes.  I would say that this DVD is aimed at new to intermediate weavers, or those who need to brush up in their techniques. There are some great tips as well for anyone at any level!

 Filmed in a nice location, bright and cheery. Sound and picture quality is good.   In the first disc, Madelyn takes you through winding a warp and then warping  from front to back. I used to do this method back in my newbie days  but not as efficiently as Madelyn shows it!  I like the way you can stop the disc, go back and watch it again (and again!)

On the second disc Madelyn shows how to wind multiple threads on the warping board. How to maintain the thread by thread order whether its two threads or multiples with a warping paddle. How to wind colours without constant cutting and knotting ends.  There are demonstrations of vertical warping mill and also a horizontal warping mill. (Like Madelyn I prefer the warping board.) How to transfer the cross from one side of the reed to the other is very helpful as well as winding striped colours individually and combining them at the reed if all that colour switching at the warping board is not for you. I found how to wind a even and tight bobbin a nice bonus as this is often overlooked.  Learn the various techniques and then make choices which is best for you!

There is a full demo of winding a warp with a thread by thread cross at one end, and a raddle cross at the other and then beaming the warp from back to front  for finer or fragile threads such as silks or linens.

I have no negatives to say about this DVD and found it to be like having Madelyn van der Hoogt right there in your home. She will go over and over a point as many times as you need and never get tired or want a lunch break!  :)
At first I thought it a bit simplistic but after viewing it a second time I have to come to realize that this is  its point. Keep it simple and stress free. Show proper techniques in small simple steps and the weaver will have success on their looms at home.  The better a warp is wound and beamed onto a loom, the better the weaving can be!

This is a nice 'private' lesson in your own home and can also be a good visual aid for a beginners class.

To follow up on this DVD, a new weaver can refer to Handwoven magazines for inspiration. I would also recommend heartily Weavers Craft  by Jean Scorgie  which are specifically written for the student weaver ( and bonus:  no ads!) For bright colourful  four shaft pattern, with explanations on the weave structures: Anne Dixon's  The Handweaver's Pattern Directory.  There is also the classic (which I learned from) Learning to Weave by Deborah Chandler

The next review will be of Madelyn van der Hoogt's companion disc: Weaving Well. From Yarn to Cloth.


Unfortunately I seem to be dealing with cranky lower back issues right now so I'm not sure how much weaving will be happening around here. I went out for a short time period to tidy spent spring bulbs in the flower beds around the house and now paying the price.  Another true confession is that I was recently diagnosed with Lupus and will actually be seeing a specialist today. [ edit: I have Arthritis Lupus]
 I'm still learning what all this entails, but I'm resolved to keep on weaving!